With the property market continuing to be tight, prospective sellers might be eager to ensure that they maximise on the traditionally busy period over the summer holidays to secure a sale. But jumping in to do home 'improvements' that are ill thought through could not only put off potential purchasers but actually end up de-valuing the property as well. Here are my 10 big home improvement 'no no's'...

1. Knocking Down Walls to Create a Bigger Bedroom - In the UK housing market, it is the number of bedrooms that really counts not the square footage. Take a note from the major house builders that will aim to squeeze in that 4th bedroom when possible - even though often cases it's barely big enough to swing a cat! So, knocking down walls to extend a bedroom might suit you but it won't do much for the value of your house. If you have say, a 4 bedroom home and you want to increase the size of one room, the result will be that buyers will judge your property to be a comparatively expensive 3 bedroom home.

2. Home Gyms - Whilst you may have desires on becoming the next Arnold Schwarzenegger, usually home gyms are squeezed into tiny spaces, just so the owners can say that they have one. However, abit like that Gym Membership that seems to loose its appeal after a couple of months, home gyms often don't get used for the purpose they are intended and the space is effectively rendered useless.

3. Swimming Pools - They are very expensive to install, very expensive to run and maintain and take up an awful lot of space. We simply don't have the climate here in the UK to justify them and again they tend to be a luxury that is little used. Buyers will fear the costs of running a pool and reports conclude that generally speaking, people would prefer to use indoor space for a large play room or hobby room rather than a pool.

4. Converting Outbuildings into Cottages - Whilst a single holiday let cottage might add value to a country house as it provides for an additional income earning opportunity, any more and you run the risk of the business taking over the home element of a property.

5. Extravagant Fixtures and Fittings - I once viewed a property that had a 'Willow Pattern' bathroom suite. Whilst this might have suited an extravert French Chateau or something, this was in a family home in a village location and it was no wonder that the owners were having difficulty selling. Overspending on light fittings and taps etc will not pay you back in terms of the value of your property. You should finish your property to a standard that is reflective of the type of home, the people that are likely to live there and the area. Having gold plated taps in a standard 2 bed city centre terrace house doesn't make it any more appealing.

6. Award Winning Gardens - I believe it is important to keep your garden neat and tidy but having a garden that wouldn't look out of place on the cover of Homes and Gardens might actually deter buyers. Gardening isn't for everyone and having one that appears to be high maintenance could mean that possible future owners will end up counting the man hours involved in keeping them that way.

7. Installing Swanky New Kitchens and Bathrooms - Of course, these rooms are important aspects of the house, but don't go installing anything over the top just to put your property on the market. Most people will have their own ideas for these rooms so adding a bespoke kitchen or state of the art bathroom might actually limit the property's appeal.

8. Over Ambitious Extensions - Could cost you a small fortune and result in your house looking and feeling disproportionate. Take notice of surrounding houses and remember that most buyers will expect your home to be similar in size and price to the one next door.

9. Garish or Kitsch Decoration - Leave the dramatic wall coverings and bright colours for now. When it comes to marketing your property for sale, neutral colours and uncluttered rooms are the least offensive to buyers - all of whom will have their own views and tastes.

10. Cocktail Bar in the Living Room - all very Pat Butcher I'm afraid. Whilst taking up alot of space, my experience is that unless kept pristine all the time, rows of glasses and bottles can soon look unkempt and can detract from other more appealing features.

Of course, many of the properties that we feature in Homes Under The Hammer are being bought by people who have plans to renovate, convert, demolish or rebuild the existing property - with ideas to breathe new live into the home as diverse as the purchasers themselves. One thing that is common to all of these stories though, is the need for Planning Permission - and this is where a project can become unstuck if the local planning department don't share the same vision.

Planning has its own rules. Unlike building regulations, planning regulations are not set in stone. They can differ from one part of the country to another - because planning involves local politics. There can also be inconsistencies between planners in one authority so it's no wonder that the matter of planning permission can be the ?great unknown' in a redevelopment project.

Many people ask me about their chances of securing Planning Permission on a specific project - a question which is almost nigh on impossible to answer, but I can at least give some general advice.

1. Get Permission First

It might sound like I am stating the obvious but don't start to do any major work until you have completely sussed out what planning permission is going to be needed and make that your priority. Applying for planning permission retrospectively (i.e. after you have done the work) is a risky game because in the worse case scenario, if it is refused, you could have to totally demolish the work that you have done.
You can make a planning application on any piece of land in the country - you don't have to actually own it, so if you are considering buying a plot or property with the intention of developing it, you could go down the route of securing planning permission before you buy the property.

2. Understand Building Regulations

Even if you don't need planning permission, building regulations approval may be necessary. These set out minimum requirements for structural integrity, fire safety, energy efficiency, damp proofing, ventilation and other key aspects that ensure a building is safe.  Consider this ?good practise' but it will also influence the eventual value of your home. Work done that doesn't meet building regulations could deter would-be buyers.

3. Design to Suit the Plot or Existing Property

It's a bad idea to set your heart on a particular size, style or design of house or extension.  If you're building a house from scratch, suitable land is so scarce that you will almost always have to design a house to suit the constraints and opportunities of the plot.  If you are extending an existing building, you should ensure that the new bit fits in with the existing structure in terms of design and materials.  Something radically different from the present structure could struggle to get planning permsssion.

4. Know When to Employ a Professional

There are professional firms who will act as consultants throughout the process of applying for planning permission. Whilst it is re-assuring to know that you have professionals ?on your side', don't fritter away essential budget on these services if you don't need them.

You can locate a planning consultant through the Royal Town Planning Institute's online directory (www.rtpiconsultants.co.uk) or you can also contact Planning Aid. Planning Aid is a charity which provides free and independent advice on town and country planning issues to people and groups who cannot afford consultancy fees.

If you are planning a straightforward extension, you may be quite capable of obtaining planning permission yourself. Successful building is getting the right balance between using the professionals and doing it yourself so that you keep control and understand what's happening. 

5. Know the Rules of the Game

If you are new to this game, its rules can be quite confusing. Small-scale planning decisions for individual houses or extensions are based mainly on policies that are contained in local Development Plan documents. You can familiarise yourself with these since they are public documents to get a feel for what sort of planning or development is going to be favoured.

6. Cover all bases

You can actually submit an infinite number of planning applications on any one site, so within reason (since there is a cost for each application) you could submit several proposals and choose which one to use depending on the outcome. As long as the planning permission is still current when you start the work, you don't have to use the most recent.

Similarly, you can withdraw an application at any time - so if you think you are going to get a refusal, you can withdraw it at any time up to the day itself, and then resubmit free of charge.

7. Love Thy Neighbour

Whatever the size of your building project, keep the neighbours informed. Neighbour objections can cause you a real headache and may have an impact on the final decision.  The best thing is to go and have a friendly chat with them very early on in the process so that they are party to your thoughts.

8. Know the Party Wall Act

And talking of Parties.If you're extending, demolishing, rebuilding or infringing in any way on the Party Wall, conforming to the Party Wall Act is a legal requirement and not a planning or building control matter.  For more on the Party Wall Act, visit my property website, www.makingmoneyfromproperty.tv

9. Beware of Removing Trees

It is a criminal offence to cut down a tree which is protected by a Tree Preservation Orders (TPO). You cannot alter or even prune a tree that has a TPO on it without written permission and doing so can result in heft fines. All trees within a Conservation Area are protected by legislation.

10. Do Your Homework!

Do your research before you start to avoid any horrible surprises. If your project involves a considerable amount of renovation, or if you are planning on building a property from scratch, make use of the information available online and at property exhibitions and shows. There's a lot of information which is free.

According to research by the Halifax a few years ago, the happiest type of home in Britain is the bungalow, which is rated by its occupants as an average of 8.15 out of 10 on a 'happiness' scale.And with this choice of dwellings contining to out-perform houses and flats in the property market, what options does a property developer have to 'add value' to a bungalow?

What is a Bungalow?

In the UK, the definition of a Bungalow is a single story building although in the US and Canada, the word, Bungalow can refer to other types of housing.

Bungalows became popular between the Wars, and very large numbers were built, particularly in coastal resorts with many villages and seaside resorts have large estates of bungalows, usually occupied by retired people. The typical 1930s bungalow is square in plan, with 1960s ones more likely to be oblong. Nearly all are brick built.

Advantages of Bungalows

The most obvious advantage of bungalows is that they are very convenient for the homeowner in that all living areas are on a single story and there are no stairs. So, bungalows are well suited to those who are mobility impaired, e.g. the elderly or those in wheelchairs. They also tend to have good driveways and large gardens.

Bungalows generally offer more privacy than two-story houses. With bungalows, strategically planted trees and shrubs are usually sufficient to block the view of neighbours. Whereas, with two-story houses, the extra height requires much taller trees to accomplish the same, and this may not be practical.

As far as developing is concerned, bungalows are easily modified and extended and they hold their value well. Often they are detached properties in sizeable plots which could be knocked down and replaced with two storey building(s).

The other important consideration affecting the relative attractiveness of bungalows is the changing demographic of our population. Whilst the stock of bungalows has remained more or less constant over past 10 years at around 1.2m, the number of people aged 70 or over in the UK has risenand this group is also expected to see further growth in coming years. Where bungalows remain popular with this group, demand will undoubtedly exceed supply.

On the downside, bungalows are more expensive to construct than two story houses because a larger foundation and roof area is required for the same living area. Hence many housebuilders don't construct them - or at best will build only a small number within a project. The larger foundation will often translate into larger plot size requirements which is why bungalows are typically fully detached from other houses and do not share a common foundation or party wall. There's also a element of snobbery about them and they aren't always the first choice for anyone under the age of 50.

So, when is a bungalow not a bungalow?

When it is a dormer bungalow like the one I visited whilst filming in Plymouth. This was a semi-detached property, with 3 bedrooms - one on the ground floor and the other two occupying the loft space.

There are differant types of dormer - a full dormer is where the conversion takes the roof outwards and the new living space can stretch from one side of the house to the other and from the ridge board (highest point in loft) right out to the eaves. This essentially, at its maximum extends the new floor to occupy the entire footprint of the property. Large dormer extensions generally require flat roofs as pitched roofs would tend to exceed the height of the existing roof.

A dormer loft conversion is where the loft space is turned into living accommodation and dormer windows are put into the roof to bring in light. 

Converting a standard Bunglow into a dormer

Whether it is a full dormer or loft conversion that is being considered, dormers almost always require planning permission since it structurally and visually alters the property. You will also need to comply with building regulations.

When extending the loft to construct a dormer it is essential that a roof's structural stability and strength is not damaged during the building process.

If you are considering a dormer conversion the process will require:

• Loft and house survey and production of floor plans
• Planning and Buildings Regulations Approval
• Building Inspectors Approval
• The actual Construction
  

The steps involved will be to:

1. Firstly you will need to have the property surveyed by a professional and building plans drawn up.

2. Then timber roof supports are installed above and below the existing roof and reinforced steel joists (RSJs) span the base and top of the dormer frame to support the weight of the ceiling and window

3. Next vertical timbers are attached onto existing roof rafters (either side of the roof aperture) to create the dormer sides (dormer walls or cheeks).

4. Since full dormers generally have flat roofs, horizontal timbers run the width of the dormer and join uprights.

5. Insulating cladding is then applied to the frame to make the structure water and weatherproof . Dormer cheeks are often clad with roofing materials such as tile or lead so the extension remains 'in keeping' with existing roof style.

6. Insulating board is intalled to the dormer frame. This maximizes the lofts heat retention capacity.

7. The dormer window is installed.

8. Plaster-boarding of internal wall of dormer over frame and insulation boards. Plastering and skimming - double application of plaster to ready the surface for a final skim and internal decoration.

9. Finally,dormer conversion is decorated with paint or wall paper if required.

To Convert or Not?

Clearly, converting a standard bungalow to a dormer is going to be costly - depending on the extent to which you will be extending the accommodation and so if investment is your aim, then you will need to weigh up the costs of conversion against the eventual resale value of the property. If you own a small bungalow in a popular or traditionally 'expensive' area, then the cost could be well justified. According to the Nationwide, detached bungalows can fetch up to 20% more than a semi-detached house in the same area.

To some buyers one of the major attractions of a bungalow is the opportunity they offer for extending your home, creating both space and profits. But if you do go up into the loft, converting your home into either a chalet bungalow (with Velux windows), or a domer bungalow, you may lose some of the appeal of the single storey.

If you are one of those property investors or developers who really like to be hands on and take control of a project right from start to finish, then the thought of taking on someone else's half baked renovation might not be very appealing, but the truth is there are some solid commercial reasons as to why this can be a good decision.

It tends to be the big, old houses that come up for sale as ?partially renovated'. By their very nature, larger properties take longer to restore, cost more and have more potential for problems to occur.either with planning or the renovation itself. And so the chances of someone deciding to ?throw in the trowel' before the project comes to fruition are increased.

The reasons for someone deciding to sell a property part way through the renovation / rebuild could be:
? The project is costing more than anticipated and capital resources have run out. (Please see Martin's 25 most common renovation mistakes and how to avoid them).
? The project has taken longer than anticipated and the existing owner needs to ?move on'.
? The existing owner has run out of enthusiasm, desire or will to complete the project.
? A change in personal circumstances of the existing owner

The latter point is exactly what had happened to a property in Cornwall that I visited recently.  Here a sizeable manor house / small mansion set within grounds had come into the auction room in a partially renovated state. The previous owner had started this hefty renovation project with the idea of creating a home for his elderly parents, but part way through, sadly one of them had passed away and after that the incentive to continue with the build was lost. Having stood vacant for some years, the owner had eventually decided to sell the estate in a half finished state.

So what's the advantage of buying a property that is partially renovated?

Well if you can come to terms with the fact that you haven't had total control over the project from its inception, there are some big positives to buying a property where some of the work has already been done:

1. Often the really messy and difficult work takes place early on in the project. This is when demolition and clearing work is carried out and major structural changes are done. Often this can be the most challenging and costly part of a project - so if you are taking up the reigns once this phase has been completed, you are in a good position.

2. Any planning and / or building regulations approval will have already been sought and achieved, which for many investor / developers is one of the most frustrating parts of a project. Particularly with older buildings (and / or listed buildings) getting the planning permission to carry out the works can mean plenty of consultation, to-ing and fro-ing with the planning office and making compromises. Seeking planning and building regulations approval can also be quite costly. Once approved and the green light is given, the project can start in earnest but it may have taken months or years to reach this point - all time when working capital is tied up.

3. This point about having working capital tied up is often foremost in the minds of investor developers, many of whom seek to turn around properties as quickly as practicably possible - taking their profit and moving onto the next project in order to maximise their total returns. Clearly, taking on a project which has already been started (and may be quite advanced) means that investors can realise their profit much quicker.

4. Given that it is likely that one of the factors listed above has bought about the sale, chances are it will be a ?distressed sale' and therefore an opportunity for savvy investors. The fact that an existing owner has either run out of time, money or willpower to continue with the restoration may mean that he/she is very motivated to sell and could be quite desparate. This means that a sensible approach and offer from a keen investor could mean that they land themselves quite a bargain.

5. Finally, depending on the amount of progress that has been made with the renovation, building materials may have been bought and are already on site. Whilst this raises security issues, it does mean that someone buying the property in this state can ?hit the ground running' and get work underway again quickly.

Of course there are some negatives to taking on someone else's project, and how big they are will depend on your attitude and approach as an investor.

1. The most obvious downside to picking up someone elses work is that planning, layout and design decisions will have already been made - and they may not be your choice. You will need to decide whether or not to ?make do' and continue with someone else's plans or to rejig the project to your satisfaction. If you do decide to re-work things, then you may have to go back to the drawing board, re-apply for planning permission and undo some of the work that has already been done.

2. The standard of workmanship and build quality may not be as you would wish. Once again, if this is the case, you need to think carefully about whether a compromise on your own standards is commercially best or to re-do some of the work to your satisfaction.

3. If the property is an older, big house, then you need to prepare yourself for the fact that there may still be unexpected problems and surprises. You'll have to have the right mindset and if you are taking on an older, period property or listed building you need to be prepared for the fact that they can be unpredictable. Also, the longer a project goes on, sometimes the harder it is to let go. An enthusiastic restoration can become all consuming on a large scale project and its easier to get sucked in. This is all fine as long as investors don't loose sight of their commercial objectives.

If you want to take on a partially renovated property, the advice is to search for one where the previous owner hasn't cut corners, has used all the correct materials and has been true to the property (particularly if it is an older, period building or a listed property) However, it's fair to say that these sort of opportunities don't rear their heads in the auction room very often, so if such a deal comes along that suits your requirements, then grab it.

Good Practice

If you do find yourself taking on a ?old girl' of a property and restoring an large, old period property or listed building then here are some useful contacts.

? Keep down costs by being hands-on and save money by keeping in mind whether VAT is payable on any work
? Contact The Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings for skills courses: www.spab.org.uk, 020 7377 1644
? The Listed Property Owners' Club is www.lpoc.co.uk, 01795 844939
? Find your local reclamation yard at www.salvo.co.uk, 01225 422300

 

Whilst we get our fair share of older, character properties to feature on the show, it is quite rare for us to visit a property with a thatched roof. Many properties with thatched roofs are period cottages and homes that have that ?chocolate box' charm and if located in a rural location with other similar properties, this alone can be quite appealing. With renewed interest in our historic architecture, thatching is once again, becoming more popular, but are houses with thatched roofs property investor / developer fodder - or more trouble than their worth.

What is thatch?

Thatching is the craft of building a roof with dry vegetation such as straw, water reed, sedge, rushes and heather, layering the vegetation so as to shed water away from the inner roof. It is a very old roofing method and has been used in both tropical and temperate climates. Thatch is still employed by builders in developing countries, usually with low-cost, local vegetation. By contrast in some developed countries it is now the choice of well-to-do people who want their home to have a rustic look.

A combination of its compactness and the steep pitch of a thatched roof mean water runs off the roof by dropping from one end of a stem of reed to another. A new thatch will only ever get wet about 1" down from the surface.

The predominant thatching material in use in this country up until the 19th Century was straw but the main thatching materials in use today are water reed, longstraw and combed wheat reed. Sedge, a grass-like plant which grows in wetland areas, is also used extensively in ridging.

In the UK new water reed or straw is generally 12" - 15" thick although some properties with straw roofs have thatch thicker that this. Interestingly, it'ss not the thickness of the thatch, but the pitch of the reed on the roof that is the crucial element in shedding water. Often a thick coat of thatch will have a slacker pitch so isn't necessarily any more effective. The length of the reed or straw also has a role to play in the efficiency of the thatch to shed water.

Generally because of the thickness of the thatch the bottom projects far enough away from the walls of the property to shed the water away from the walls without the need for gutters and downpipes. Water runs off the roof either into a soak-away trench - filled with small stones - or the water just finds its own way of soaking into the ground or drying on the surface of the ground.

The ridge

As the final protective covering along the top of the roof, the purpose of the ridge is twofold: to conceal the last fixing rod and to provide an attractive finish to the roof.

Although a high quality ridge will only need replacing every 12-15 years, a poor quality ridge may only last 5-7 years. Sometimes, however, the ridge may look shabby, whilst still serving its purpose of keeping water out.

In the UK ridges are made from straw or sedge because this is easier to bend over and form a watertight bond at the apex.

Thatched roofs will have felt underneath. This is for 2 reasons;  It keeps the property dry whilst thatching work is taking place and obviates the need for tarpaulins. Second it prevents dust and loose bits of reed/straw falling into the roof space after thatching has been completed.

Life expectancy

Thatch will, of course, need to be replaced, but contrary to popular belief it can last decades - up to 40-50 years depending on the material used, the pitch and aspect of the roof and the quality of the workmanship. A new ridge will need to be fitted every 10-15 years though and at this time the whole roof can be dressed and cleaned and any moss removed.

Towards the end of its life, a thatched roof will require patching; however, regular inspection and maintenance of the thatch can prevent problems such as vermin damage or rot from shortening the lifespan of the roof.

Some thatched roofs will have wire netting on them. This is to protect straw roofs from birds (it is also fitted to ridges for the same reason) and it adds protection from strong winds etc especially in exposed sites.

What's the advantage of a thatched roof?

Apart from its individuality and charm, the main advantage of thatch is that it has quite unique insulating properties meaning that the property stays cosy warm in winter and yet cool in summer. You can't say this about more recently built properties!

If you are considering buying a property with a  thatched roof then its important that you thoroughly check its condition.

Unlike a conventional roof, it is very obvious if a thatched roof is in poor shape, so take time to stand and look at the condition of the thatch:

o If fixings are exposed all over the roof, it indicates that the thatch is either nearing, or has reached the end of its life.

o If gullies are appearing (vertical deep patches of rot), these will require the attention of an experienced thatcher. Similarly, dark wet patches on the eaves close to the wall indicate the thatch is leaking.

o If the roof is covered in heavy moss, it could mean that the thatch is unable to breath and is therefore unable to dry out properly.

There are some common misconceptions about thatched roofs - which tend to put off first time buyers or those people wanting a low maintenance home. Perhaps for this reason, they tend NOT to sell at a premium (despite their obvious ascetic charm) as they're not to everyone's taste and people believe that they will be costly and time consuming to maintain. So what are the facts about thatch.

Facts about Thatch

1. Statistically, homes with thatched roofs are no more likely to catch fire than those with conventional roofs. If you try and set fire to a closed, thick book, you'll find that it won't burn very easily due to the lack of air and compactness of the pages. The same is true of thatch.

2. Thatched homes are not disproportionately expensive to insure - premiums are the lowest they've ever been; incorporating fire preventative measures makes insuring a thatched roof in the UK not much more than a slate or tiled roof.

Listed thatch

About 75% of thatched properties are listed, so this brings extra considerations. Most external or internal repairs or alterations to listed buildings require listed building consent and you should talk to your local Building Conservation Officer before employing a thatcher to carry-out work on the roof.

Fire Precautions

With common sense and diligence, you can still have an open fire or woodburning stove in a thatched property.Statistically, homes with thatched roofs are no more likely to catch fire than those with conventional roofs; however, if a thatched roof does ignite, the results are rapid and spectacular, so owners of properties with thatched roofs should take precautions.

o You can have the thatch fire-retarded - either by being sprayed on completion or the material dipped in a fire retardant before being applied to the roof.
o Around 90% of thatch fires are caused by chimneys - they need to be swept regularly to prevent a build-up of soot deposits.
o The top of the chimney stack must be at least five feet above the thatch, allowing sparks to escape and die-out before they settle on the thatch.
o The chimney should be checked to ensure that the brick or stone work is in good condition and it should have an insulated lining fitted where the stack passes through the thatch.  Having the chimney lined is a sensible precaution.
o When installing a stove, make sure you employ a professional with experience of thatched properties to do the job.
o  Keep any eye on the flue temperature by fitting a flue thermometer and don't burn wet or unseasoned wood, as this will leave greater deposits in the flue.
o Electrical wires in the roof space should be checked by an electrician regularly.
o The roof should be checked for signs of mice or other vermin as they can cause damage to electric wires.
o  Locate smoke alarms and appropriate fire extinguishers throughout the property.
o If contractors are carrying-out work in the roof space, make sure they do not use blow-torches or other equipment which could create sparks. Plumbers for example should only use compression joints.

Uninvited guests

Owners of thatched properties are sometimes not the only ones who appreciate the warmth and beauty of their quintessential English roof - nesting birds, mice, rats and even squirrels can end up making a hole in your pocket as well as your thatch, so owners of thatched roofs should follow some simple guidelines:

o Walk around your property and have a good look at the roof once a week - if pieces of your thatch are sticking out in loose clumps, with holes above, this could indicate that you have guests.
o  If you suspect your roof is playing host to mice, rats or squirrels, contact your thatcher or pest control officer for immediate advice.
o  Wire netting applied all over the roof will prevent birds and vermin from gaining entry and is recommended on combed wheat roofs (long straw) and for water reed roofs if birds and rodents are a persistent problem.
o Birds are particularly fond of nesting under eaves - particularly if the thatch has not been properly fixed in place, or has become loose. To remedy the problem, call in a thatcher before the birds start looking for nesting sites in early spring and encourage birds to nest in your garden, rather than your roof, by providing a variety of nest boxes around your property.
o Watch out for squirrels in autumn and winter - they are particularly fond of hiding their nuts in thatch and also like to sharpen their teeth on the lead flashing around chimneys.
o The worst damage is caused by rats, which gain access to the roof space and then burrow their way out through the thatch. Make life difficult for them by feeding wild birds etc recommended feeders and avoid throwing food waste on your compost heap. Make sure bin bags are stored where rats and foxes cannot gain access to them.

In Summary:

Whilst these quintessentially English roofs obvious appeal and are ascending in popularity after many years of decline, they're not for everyone. Anyone with a thatched roof, or considering buying a property with one needs to be prepared to carry out extra maintenance and be vigilant about fire and pests. That said, they are part of our heritage and should be preserved.

The National Council of Master Thatchers Association (http://www.ncmta.co.uk/) represents county based  Master Thatchers Associations.

Compulsory Purchase Orders tend to conjure up images of little old ladies being turfed out of the house they have lived in all their lives to make way for a new road - but equally there are neighbourhoods and communities who are suffering due to empty, unsightly and often dangerous properties existing on their doorsteps. As much as they are dreaded, Compulsory Purchase Orders can get much needed housing stock back into circulation and this has to be good news for everyone...

I visited a semi-detached house in Manchester recently that had found its way into the auction rooms after having been Compulsory Purchased by the Council. It was in a really poor state of repair, having stood vacant for a long time and with no sign of the owners. The Council had therefore used its powers to Compulsory Purchase the property under the Housing Act 1985 to put it back into use and had put it into the auction in order that new owners could buy it and restore it to a habitable condition.

Indeed as part of the deal, the property was sold subject to a schedule of works being carried out so the Council could ensure that all the necessary works would be done and this eyesore (which was sitting in the middle of nice, well maintained properties) would no longer be a blot in an otherwise pleasant residential road.

There are major advantages to the community where compulsory purchase powers are used.  The Council removes ownership of substandard properties from owners unwilling or unable to improve them to sell on to purchasers willing and able to do so.  The transformation of badly managed, poor condition housing for residential use has a marked impact on local environment and the quality of life for neighbouring residents so although seemingly unwelcome, CPOs serve a very valid purpose in maintaining neighbourhoods.

In the case of our Manchester property, it had been purchased by two enthusiastic property renovators who were going to be using their own money to do the works and were then planning to put the property back on the market to be sold. They wanted to restore it to a high standard - in keeping with the area and planned to do so in just 6 weeks!

What is Compulsory Purchase?

A Compulsory Purchase Order (CPO) is a legal action in the United Kingdom and the Republic of Ireland that allows certain bodies which need to obtain land or property to do so without the consent of the owner. It is a forced sale of a property to the Council, authorised by the Secretary of State. We tend to hear about CPOs when land or buildings are obstructing the development of an area for the public good i.e. when building motorways where a land owner does not want to sell or if a town council wishes to develop a town centre. Recent major compulsory purchase schemes include the London 2012 Olympics, Manchester Airport 2nd Runway, Liverpool Paradise Street Redevelopment and Leeds Supertram.

In the Republic of Ireland, CPOs are quite common due to the massive road upgrade programme under the National Development Plan. Most Orders are made under powers given to Local Authorities in existing legislation (see below). Whilst the powers are strong the Authority must demonstrate that the taking of the land is necessary and there is a "compelling case in the public interest".

Owners or occupiers can challenge this, and their objection will be heard by an independent Inspector. If the CPO is still enforceable, the owners or occupiers will receive compensation - usually equating to the value of the property, costs of acquiring and moving to a new property, and sometimes additional payments. Costs of professional advice regarding compensation are also usually so that people affected by a compulsory purchase order can seek advice from a solicitor.

Under what legislation can a Council issue a CPO?

Local Authorities have power under various Acts to compulsory purchase a property. The powers range from redevelopment under the Town and Country Planning Act, to property clearance under the Housing Act. The Council must have a specific power under statute before a Compulsory Purchase Order can be made. Compulsory Purchase Orders can be used for a number of purposes, including:

• Clearance of unfit housing - Housing Act 1985 
• Bringing empty properties back into use - Housing Act 1985
• Development or regeneration - Town and Country Planning Act 1990
• Local road schemes - Highways Act 1980

What if your property is at risk of being Compulsory Purchased?

The first thing to say is that most local authorities will prefer to encourage and persuade owners of substandard properties to improve and return them to permanent residential use rather than to make a CPO.  Councils will have strategies to give financial assistance and other incentives and to exercise their legislative powers to owners of empty properties before going down the route of Compulsory Purchase.

Government policy on CPOs is that they should be used as a last resort after the owner has been given every opportunity to carry out improvements voluntarily or in compliance with statutory notices.

However, there will always be situations where owners of tenanted properties fail to comply with statutory notices, and owners of empty properties resist all encouragement to bring them back into residential use.  In these circumstances the Council's only remaining option is to consider the use of compulsory purchase.

If your property is earmarked for Compulsory Purchase, the decision and ability of the Council to do so, won't be quick! Compulsory Purchase Orders must follow a formal statutory process.

The basic steps are as follows:

• Instructions are received to make a Compulsory Purchase Order.
• The council must obtain information regarding legal interests in the land including serving requisitions for information, title checks and notification of affected persons that their interests in the land can be sold to the authority in advance of compulsory purchase or an Order will be served in due course.  
• The Council will prepare a draft report regarding compulsory purchase which will include a Statement of Reasons for making, and the draft CPO itself to present to Cabinet. 
• Cabinet approves Compulsory Purchase Order. 
• The Order is formally made by affixing the Council's Seal, advertisements are placed in the press, formal Notices including a copy of the Compulsory Purchase Order and the statutory forms served upon all persons of legal interests in the land. This allows a 28 day objection period.
• If objections are received the Secretary of State will direct a Compulsory Purchase Order Inquiry to be held. This is held within a timescale set by the Secretary of State and will normally involve a Pre-Inquiry Meeting and a formal Open Public Inquiry into whether the Compulsory Purchase Order should be confirmed or not. Once the Inquiry has been completed, the Inspector will put a report before the Secretary of State who will decide whether to confirm the Order as drawn, modify it, or reject the Compulsory Purchase Order.
• If there are no objections the Secretary of State, or in certain circumstances the local authority, confirm the Compulsory Purchase Order. Once a Compulsory Purchase Order has been confirmed the Council can serve a General Vesting Declaration, or a Notice to Treat / Entry which will transfer the legal interest from the then owner to the Borough council. After this the development / clearance can begin.

There are various law firms who specialise in representing the interests of owners / occupiers of properties affected by CPOs and who aim to object on your behalf and negotiate compensation for you.

The matter of CPOs is defiantly one where there are two sides to the story. Yes, they conjure up images of little old ladies being turfed out of the house they have lived in all their lives to make way for a new road, but equally there are neighbourhoods and communities who are suffering due to empty, unsightly and often dangerous properties existing on their doorsteps. If CPOs can get this much needed housing stock back into circulation then that has to be good news for everyone - not least eager property developers willing and able to snap them up and restore them in double quick time!

We are all becoming increasingly aware of climate change and global warming and whether you just manage to recycle a few bottles each week, or have become a real ?eco-warrior' -  you would have had to be living on the moon for the last decade to escape the efforts of the government to reduce carbon emissions. Given that it is estimated that up to a quarter of all carbon emissions are as a direct result of us heating, lighting and living in our homes, there is a huge incentive for the Government in reaching is targets for reducing carbon emissions, to target the energy efficiency of the homes we live in.

One such initiative that came into force from 1st May 2008, was the Code For Sustainable Homes initiative. If you have bought or sold a property in the last 12 months or so, then you will have already felt the impact of this Code by the fact that the property you were buying or selling would have had to have an Energy Performance Certificate on it.

As far as new build homes are concerned, the Code for Sustainable Homes has an assessment method for rating and certifying the performance of new homes in terms of their ?environmental friendliness' with a view to encouraging ?continuous improvement in sustainable home building'.

 "The Code for Sustainable Homes provides a comprehensive measure of the sustainability of new homes, ensuring that sustainable homes deliver real improvements in key areas such as carbon dioxide emissions and water use. The Government's ambition for the Code is that it becomes the single national standard for the design and construction of sustainable homes, and that it drives improvements in home building practice."

Since its introduction just over a year ago, all new homes have to have a ?sustainability rating' indicating on a scale of 1-6 how eco-friendly they are (with 6 being the highest and representing a carbon neutral house).

At the same time as all this good stuff on sustainable development has come about, we have been in the midst of a credit crunch with lenders pulling in their horns left, right and centre and refusing mortgages to people and projects who would have previously represented a good risk. So, as anyone who has been refused credit or a mortgage in the past year will tell you, the attitude of banks to lending has become extremely cautious.

But put these 2 factors together - as did some forward thinking developers that I met in Lincolnshire recently - and you could have a formula for being granted credit AND doing the right thing for the environment.

Our contributors planned to convert an old community centre into private residential dwellings, but they were initially declined a mortgage because the bank was unwilling to back a project to develop flats given the uncertain economic situation and property market. However, when the proposals were shown to be the development of a number of eco-friendly starter homes - the bank jumped at the chance to lend and were right behind them. It seems that the fact that the properties were to be built to a Sustainability Rating of 3 -4 clinched the deal.

The Code Rating System

The Code for Sustainable Homes covers nine categories of sustainable design including:

? Energy and CO2 Emissions - With the aim to limit emissions of carbon dioxide (CO2) to the atmosphere arising from the operation of a dwelling and its services.

? Water - With the aim to reduce the consumption of potable water in the home from all sources, including borehole well water, through the use of water efficient fittings, appliances and water recycling systems.

? Materials - With the aim to encourage the use of materials with lower environmental impacts over their lifecycle.

? Surface Water Run-off - With the aim to design housing developments which avoid, reduce and delay the discharge of rainfall to public sewers and watercourses. This will protect watercourses and reduce the risk of localised flooding, pollution and other environmental damage.

? Waste - With the aim to recognise and reward the provision of adequate internal and external storage space for non-recyclable waste and recyclable household waste.

? Pollution - With the aim to reduce global warming from blowing agent emissions that arise from the manufacture, installation, use and disposal of foamed thermal and acoustic insulating materials.

? Heath and Wellbeing - With the aim to improve the quality of life in homes through good day lighting and to reduce the need for energy to light the home.

? Management - With the aim to encourage and reward provision of guidance enabling occupants to understand and operate their home efficiently and make the best use of local facilities.

? Ecology - With the aim to encourage development on land that already has a limited value to wildlife, and discourage the development of ecologically valuable sites.

Minimum Standards

There are some minimum standards which all new build homes must reach and these are set out in the Code for Sustainable Homes Technical Guide. To download the latest version updated May 2009 please click here:

http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/code_for_sustainable_homes_techguide.pdf

Each of the nine categories listed above includes a number of environmental issues. Each issue is a source of impact on the environment which can be assessed against a performance target and awarded one or more credits. Performance targets are more demanding than the minimum standard needed to satisfy Building Regulations or other legislation. They represent good or best practice, are technically feasible, and can be delivered by the building industry.

Some of the issues have mandatory minimum performance standards because they are so important. For these there is a single mandatory requirement which must be met, irrespective of what Code level rating is sought and the property must meet these requirements even if Level 1 (the lowest) rating is being granted. 

So what does a Sustainability Rating of 3 - 4 actually mean?

Since our contributors where aiming for a minimum of Code Level 3, this would mean:

The home will have to be 25% more energy efficient than one built to the 2006 Building Regulations standards. This could be achieved by:

? Improving the thermal efficiency of the walls, windows, and roof as far as is practically possible (by using more insulation or better glass for example);

? Reducing air permeability to the minimum consistent with health requirements (a certain amount of air ventilation is needed in a home for health reasons);

? Installing a high efficiency condensing boiler;

? Carefully designing the fabric of the home to reduce thermal bridging (thermal bridging allows heat to easily escape between the inner walls and the outer walls of a home);

? Possibly using district heating systems or low and zero carbon technologies such as solar thermal panels or biomass boilers to help heat the hot water.

The home will have to be designed to use no more than about 105 litres of water per person per day. This could be achieved by fitting a number of items such as:

? 6/4 Dual Flush WC;

? Flow Reducing/Aerating taps throughout;

? 6-9 litres per minute shower (note that an average electric shower is about 6/7 litres per minute);

? a smaller, shaped bath - still long enough to lie down in, but less water required to fill it to a level consistent with personal comfort;

? 18ltr maximum volume dishwasher;

? 60ltr maximum volume washing machine.

Other minimum requirements are required for:

? Surface water management - this may mean the provision of soakaways and areas of porous paving;

? Materials - this means a minimum number of materials meeting at least a ?D' grade in the Building Research Establishment's Green Guide (the scale goes from A+ to E);

? Waste management - this means having a site waste management plan in place during the home's construction, and adequate space for waste storage during its use.

To get to Level 3 the builder/developer must do other things to obtain the other points such as:

? Providing drying space (so that tumble dryers need not be used);

? Providing more energy efficient lighting (both internally and externally);

? Providing cycle storage;

? Providing a room that can be easily set up as a home office;

? Reducing the amount of water than runs off the site into the storm drains;

? Using much more environmentally friendly materials;

? Providing recycling capacity either inside or outside the home;

? Enhancing the security of the home;

? Enhancing the sound insulation used in the home.

The Future of New Homes

By 2016, all new build homes will have to have a sustainability rating of 6.

To see what would have to be done to achieve a Code Level 6 (the highest score, click here)

Clearly, the costs of meeting these requirements for a rating of 3 - 4 is greater than a bog standard construction, but the additional investment is likely to pay off - and our Lincoln developers were already assured that the finished product would be in strong demand. So, given that housebuilders and developers (both large and small) are currently having to offer large discounts or other ?sweeteners' to purchasers just to get housing inventory sold, this eco-friendly home strategy could be a shrewd move. Certainly, the fact that the bank were so keen to become involved once they understood the nature of the properties being developed is a sure sign of the possible success of this venture.

Please Note: The Code does not apply in Scotland. From 1 May 2008 a minimum of Code level 3 is required for all new housing promoted or supported by the Welsh Assembly Government or Assembly Government Sponsored Bodies. From 2nd June 2008 Code Level 3 is required for all new self-contained social housing in Northern Ireland.