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Thursday, 05 August 2010
With the property market continuing to be tight, prospective sellers might be eager to ensure that they maximise on the traditionally busy period over the summer holidays to secure a sale. But jumping in to do home 'improvements' that are ill thought through could not only put off potential purchasers but actually end up de-valuing the property as well. Here are my 10 big home improvement 'no no's'...

1. Knocking Down Walls to Create a Bigger Bedroom - In the UK housing market, it is the number of bedrooms that really counts not the square footage. Take a note from the major house builders that will aim to squeeze in that 4th bedroom when possible - even though often cases it's barely big enough to swing a cat! So, knocking down walls to extend a bedroom might suit you but it won't do much for the value of your house. If you have say, a 4 bedroom home and you want to increase the size of one room, the result will be that buyers will judge your property to be a comparatively expensive 3 bedroom home.

2. Home Gyms - Whilst you may have desires on becoming the next Arnold Schwarzenegger, usually home gyms are squeezed into tiny spaces, just so the owners can say that they have one. However, abit like that Gym Membership that seems to loose its appeal after a couple of months, home gyms often don't get used for the purpose they are intended and the space is effectively rendered useless.

3. Swimming Pools - They are very expensive to install, very expensive to run and maintain and take up an awful lot of space. We simply don't have the climate here in the UK to justify them and again they tend to be a luxury that is little used. Buyers will fear the costs of running a pool and reports conclude that generally speaking, people would prefer to use indoor space for a large play room or hobby room rather than a pool.

4. Converting Outbuildings into Cottages - Whilst a single holiday let cottage might add value to a country house as it provides for an additional income earning opportunity, any more and you run the risk of the business taking over the home element of a property.

5. Extravagant Fixtures and Fittings - I once viewed a property that had a 'Willow Pattern' bathroom suite. Whilst this might have suited an extravert French Chateau or something, this was in a family home in a village location and it was no wonder that the owners were having difficulty selling. Overspending on light fittings and taps etc will not pay you back in terms of the value of your property. You should finish your property to a standard that is reflective of the type of home, the people that are likely to live there and the area. Having gold plated taps in a standard 2 bed city centre terrace house doesn't make it any more appealing.

6. Award Winning Gardens - I believe it is important to keep your garden neat and tidy but having a garden that wouldn't look out of place on the cover of Homes and Gardens might actually deter buyers. Gardening isn't for everyone and having one that appears to be high maintenance could mean that possible future owners will end up counting the man hours involved in keeping them that way.

7. Installing Swanky New Kitchens and Bathrooms - Of course, these rooms are important aspects of the house, but don't go installing anything over the top just to put your property on the market. Most people will have their own ideas for these rooms so adding a bespoke kitchen or state of the art bathroom might actually limit the property's appeal.

8. Over Ambitious Extensions - Could cost you a small fortune and result in your house looking and feeling disproportionate. Take notice of surrounding houses and remember that most buyers will expect your home to be similar in size and price to the one next door.

9. Garish or Kitsch Decoration - Leave the dramatic wall coverings and bright colours for now. When it comes to marketing your property for sale, neutral colours and uncluttered rooms are the least offensive to buyers - all of whom will have their own views and tastes.

10. Cocktail Bar in the Living Room - all very Pat Butcher I'm afraid. Whilst taking up alot of space, my experience is that unless kept pristine all the time, rows of glasses and bottles can soon look unkempt and can detract from other more appealing features.
POSTED BY: AT 08:35 am   |  Permalink   |  E-mail this
Thursday, 03 June 2010

All too often, fantastic investment properties get overlooked in the auction catalogue because they don't look that appealing when judged by themselves. Yet, by reading the small print, or better still, taking a drive-by viewing of the lot, it could be revealed that the real value is not in the property itself but the garden. Houses with huge gardens should scream ?building plot' - and the land may well be worth more than the property itself.

So, what if you want to buy a house with a large garden and build another property(ies) in the grounds? What are the issues?

1. It's fair to say that you may not be your neighbour's best friend if you decide to build in your back garden. If you have lived in the same house a long time and so have your neighbours, you should prepare yourself for some complaints. Manage their expectations by talking through what you propose to do and how it may impact them. You may consider joining up with other neighbours and each offering part of your garden for sale - a potential site for several homes can be worth far more, proportionally, than a plot with room for just one.

2. It is difficult for planning authorities to resist applications to build houses in back gardens, thanks to planning guidelines which obliges houses to be built at higher densities then in the past. So, this is particularly relevant if you already own or intend to buy an older property - built in days when land wasn't so sought after.

3. Access to the new house will be of primary importance and if an application for planning permission is turned down, it is usually because access to the site is difficult. The ideal building site has frontage on an existing road. As little as 30 ft to the side of your house can provide enough land for a new house, although planners will look at the density of the existing houses in the street to see that any new building is in keeping. 

4. If the bulk of your garden is to the rear of the house, all is not lost, however - so long as there is some means of creating access to the road. This may mean getting together with a neighbour and sharing the profits from the development. You have to be careful, however, that the access road you create cannot also be used for subsequent developments in neighbours' gardens. Otherwise the developer, having bought your garden, will knock on your neighbours' doors and buy several back gardens. If this happens, the access road beside your house, which you thought was only going to be used by one household becomes the way into a development of 30 homes.

5. The way to prevent that happening is not to sell the land to be used for the driveway to the new property. Hang on to ownership but grant a right of way - or "easement" - to the new house. Access cannot then be used for other houses without your granting further easements.

6. Be mindful that you may not be exactly sure how the development will change the landscape of your street, or impinge on your own privacy, until it is actually built. There have been cases where several owners have clubbed together and sold part of their gardens for development, only to find that their services were compromised because of the extra drain on them. Cases such as baths no longer draining properly because the existing drainage systems could not cope with the extra load might be rare but you can't rule this sort of thing out.

7. Protect your scheme by taking out a ?restrictive covenant' if you are worried that the eventual development may not be what you have in mind. i.e. a developer buying your garden with planning permission for say, a small bungalow and then resubmitting an application for a large house(s). A restrictive covenant might limit the building to one storey and to a particular size. If a developer wishes to build bigger he will then have to ask you and the planning authority for permission. Be aware however, that whilst restrictive covenants will protect you, the more restrictive covenants you put on a plot, the more they affects the price you will receive.

8. Prepare yourself for the fact that a developer may try and make you sell your house as well as the portion of garden. The developer may make a calculated decision that it is more economic to buy your house as well as the garden and demolish it to rebuild more properties. This can seem very heartless to you - particularly if you have lived in the property for a long time or it has strong emotional ties.

How much to sell for?

As a rule of thumb, developers expect to pay one third of the value of the finished development for the plot. So, if a £150,000 house can be squeezed into your back garden, you should think in terms of receiving £50,000.

The effect on the value of your own property is less certain, and will depend on how much garden is left, and to what extent the new property will affect your home. If you live in a five-bedroom home and the sale of a building plot will leave you with no more than a patio, you could find your house extremely difficult to sell.

POSTED BY: AT 09:37 am   |  Permalink   |  E-mail this
Thursday, 21 January 2010

According to research by the Halifax a few years ago, the happiest type of home in Britain is the bungalow, which is rated by its occupants as an average of 8.15 out of 10 on a 'happiness' scale.And with this choice of dwellings contining to out-perform houses and flats in the property market, what options does a property developer have to 'add value' to a bungalow?

What is a Bungalow?

In the UK, the definition of a Bungalow is a single story building although in the US and Canada, the word, Bungalow can refer to other types of housing.

Bungalows became popular between the Wars, and very large numbers were built, particularly in coastal resorts with many villages and seaside resorts have large estates of bungalows, usually occupied by retired people. The typical 1930s bungalow is square in plan, with 1960s ones more likely to be oblong. Nearly all are brick built.

Advantages of Bungalows

The most obvious advantage of bungalows is that they are very convenient for the homeowner in that all living areas are on a single story and there are no stairs. So, bungalows are well suited to those who are mobility impaired, e.g. the elderly or those in wheelchairs. They also tend to have good driveways and large gardens.

Bungalows generally offer more privacy than two-story houses. With bungalows, strategically planted trees and shrubs are usually sufficient to block the view of neighbours. Whereas, with two-story houses, the extra height requires much taller trees to accomplish the same, and this may not be practical.

As far as developing is concerned, bungalows are easily modified and extended and they hold their value well. Often they are detached properties in sizeable plots which could be knocked down and replaced with two storey building(s).

The other important consideration affecting the relative attractiveness of bungalows is the changing demographic of our population. Whilst the stock of bungalows has remained more or less constant over past 10 years at around 1.2m, the number of people aged 70 or over in the UK has risenand this group is also expected to see further growth in coming years. Where bungalows remain popular with this group, demand will undoubtedly exceed supply.

On the downside, bungalows are more expensive to construct than two story houses because a larger foundation and roof area is required for the same living area. Hence many housebuilders don't construct them - or at best will build only a small number within a project. The larger foundation will often translate into larger plot size requirements which is why bungalows are typically fully detached from other houses and do not share a common foundation or party wall. There's also a element of snobbery about them and they aren't always the first choice for anyone under the age of 50.

So, when is a bungalow not a bungalow?

When it is a dormer bungalow like the one I visited whilst filming in Plymouth. This was a semi-detached property, with 3 bedrooms - one on the ground floor and the other two occupying the loft space.

There are differant types of dormer - a full dormer is where the conversion takes the roof outwards and the new living space can stretch from one side of the house to the other and from the ridge board (highest point in loft) right out to the eaves. This essentially, at its maximum extends the new floor to occupy the entire footprint of the property. Large dormer extensions generally require flat roofs as pitched roofs would tend to exceed the height of the existing roof.

A dormer loft conversion is where the loft space is turned into living accommodation and dormer windows are put into the roof to bring in light. 

Converting a standard Bunglow into a dormer

Whether it is a full dormer or loft conversion that is being considered, dormers almost always require planning permission since it structurally and visually alters the property. You will also need to comply with building regulations.

When extending the loft to construct a dormer it is essential that a roof's structural stability and strength is not damaged during the building process.

If you are considering a dormer conversion the process will require:

  • Loft and house survey and production of floor plans
  • Planning and Buildings Regulations Approval
  • Building Inspectors Approval
  • The actual Construction

The steps involved will be to:

1. Firstly you will need to have the property surveyed by a professional and building plans drawn up.

2. Then timber roof supports are installed above and below the existing roof and reinforced steel joists (RSJs) span the base and top of the dormer frame to support the weight of the ceiling and window

3. Next vertical timbers are attached onto existing roof rafters (either side of the roof aperture) to create the dormer sides (dormer walls or cheeks).

4. Since full dormers generally have flat roofs, horizontal timbers run the width of the dormer and join uprights.

5. Insulating cladding is then applied to the frame to make the structure water and weatherproof . Dormer cheeks are often clad with roofing materials such as tile or lead so the extension remains 'in keeping' with existing roof style.

6. Insulating board is intalled to the dormer frame. This maximizes the lofts heat retention capacity.

7. The dormer window is installed.

8. Plaster-boarding of internal wall of dormer over frame and insulation boards. Plastering and skimming - double application of plaster to ready the surface for a final skim and internal decoration.

9. Finally,dormer conversion is decorated with paint or wall paper if required.

To Convert or Not?

Clearly, converting a standard bungalow to a dormer is going to be costly - depending on the extent to which you will be extending the accommodation and so if investment is your aim, then you will need to weigh up the costs of conversion against the eventual resale value of the property. If you own a small bungalow in a popular or traditionally 'expensive' area, then the cost could be well justified. According to the Nationwide, detached bungalows can fetch up to 20% more than a semi-detached house in the same area.

To some buyers one of the major attractions of a bungalow is the opportunity they offer for extending your home, creating both space and profits. But if you do go up into the loft, converting your home into either a chalet bungalow (with Velux windows), or a domer bungalow, you may lose some of the appeal of the single storey.

POSTED BY: AT 11:53 am   |  Permalink   |  E-mail this
Monday, 03 August 2009

Whilst we are basking in the height of our wonderful British Summer (or not!) thoughts of central heating might seem far away. But as we all know, now is the time when property renovators and developers are getting this kind of work carried out. So what do you face if you have to put central heating into a property for the first time?...a huge bill?...maybe not...

Having central heating in a property is considered a 'must have' these days. Any developer or renovator coming into a property that has either no central heating at all or a very old, out of date system, will certainly put it at the top of the priority list for work to be done. But whilst some people might be put off taking on a renovation where central heating has to be installed, the reality is that the work involved and cost needn't be prohibitive.

Installing new central heating is one of those jobs where less experienced developers might be put off - thoughts of expensive boilers and plumbing works to blame - but in actual fact with the wide range of choices available today to heat a property and provide hot water, developers can pretty much spend what they want to and can budget accordingly. What's more, if they choose an energy efficient system, it can be a real sales feature for prospective buyers and tenants.

Traditional Types of Central Heating Systems

There are three main types of boiler currently available in the UK:

  • Combination - combi boilers
  • Regular boilers (also referred to as ?traditional' or ?conventional' boilers)
  • System boilers
Boilers have gone through a strong evolution over the last few decades improving their performance, their efficiency, their output and their physical design and looks. New boilers are substantially more efficient, offer better value and are simpler to install and service.

The most important advance has been the introduction of the condensing boiler, which in simple terms recover a substantial percentage of the waste heat that is normally expelled into the atmosphere from the flue of a standard (non-condensing) boiler. By using an extra-large heat exchanger (or two heat exchangers in other cases) within the boiler, the system maximises heat transfer from the burner while recovering useful heat that would normally be lost with the flue gases.

Another important system that is proving to be extremely popular is the Combination (Combi) boiler. Combi boilers supply hot water to a sealed heating system as well as a  instant hot water for domestic use (shower, kitchen etc.). Combi boilers are very easy to install, small and save valuable space and are very economic.

What Type of Boiler to buy?

Combi Boiler might be best if....

  • Loft space is important, and you would like to free up space for storage or loft conversion
  • Your property is small, you live in a flat, space is at a premium
  • You do not have a loft and are looking to replace your boiler
  • You already have an old Combi boiler and you are looking to replace it
  • You are looking for a small boiler to fit in the kitchen


System / Conventional Boiler   

  •  Your property has 2 or more bathrooms
  • The mains pressure in your property is low
  • You have an old gravity fed system that requires a new boiler
  • There is a large demand for hot water in your household
  • You have a large house with 5 or more bedrooms and 2 or more bathrooms


Sweeteners from the Energy Companies

If you are considering replacing an existing, or buying a new boiler for the first time, then there are plenty of incentives on offer from companies who supply and install them. Typically, you might find that you can negotiate:

  • A lump sum (say £200) off the cost of installation
  • Free boiler and central heating protection insurance for your first year
  • 'Buy now pay later' payment terms
  • Trade-in options for your old boiler
  • FREE warranty on all parts and labour for a period of time

 

Other options for heating and hot water production

However, installing a conventional central heating system is no longer your only option, there are now a number of differant options to generate hot water and heating in our homes, particularly with energy efficiency in mind:

Solar Water Heating

There is obviously a strong social case for installing solar panels for hot water heating and as energy prices rise, the financial case is becoming more viable as well.

Solar hot water systems can produce 70% of required hot water per year and reduce fuel bills by up to 40% per annum. Solar heating panels have been installed in regions as extreme as the Arctic and Antarctic and have still proved to provide hot water. Heating is dependent on sunlight rather than the ambient temperature, so even on the coldest days experienced in the UK, as long as there is sufficient sunlight falling on the tubes, heating will be effective.

Be prepared to spend in the region of £4,000 - £6,000 for solar water heating panels for the average house and to receive £400 back in the form of a government grant.

It can take several years at today's prices to pay off your investment. Having said that, if energy prices increase further, this will mean your investment is now likely to be paid off earlier. And of course, reducing your carbon footprint, helping to mitigate the effects of climate change, will start immediately.

Heat Pumps

Ground source heat pumps use pipes buried in the garden to extract heat from the ground. This is usually used to warm water for radiators or underfloor heating systems. It can also be used to pre-heat water before it goes into a more conventional boiler. Beneath the surface, the ground stays at a constant temperature, so a ground source heat pump can be used throughout the year - even in the middle of winter.

How does a ground source heat pump work?

A ground source heat pump circulates a mixture of water and antifreeze around a loop of pipe - called a ground loop - which is buried in the garden. When the liquid travels around the loop it absorbs heat from the ground - used to heat radiators, underfloor heating systems and even hot water.

The length of the ground loop depends on the size of your home and the amount of heat you need - longer loops can draw more heat from the ground.

Normally the loop is laid flat, or coiled in trenches about two metres deep, but if there is not enough space in your garden you can install a vertical loop to a depth of up to 100 metres.

The benefits of ground source heat pumps

  •     Reduce your CO2 emissions: on average a ground source heat pump could save around 1.8 tonnes of carbon dioxide every year when replacing an oil boiler.
  •     Eliminate your fuel bills: ground source heat pumps run on electricity, so there's no need to pay for gas, oil or solid fuels to heat your home.
  •     Cut down on wasted electricity: heating your home with a ground source heat pump is much more efficient than using electric radiators.


Costs and savings

Costs of installing a typical system range from about £7,000 to £13,000 but running costs for a year are much lower than traditional central heating systems although will depend on a number of factors - including the size of your home and how well insulated it is.


Air and water source heat pumps

These systems use similar principles to ground source heat pumps to extract heat from air or water instead of the ground.

Air source heat pumps can be fitted outside a house or in the roof space and generally perform better at slightly warmer air temperatures. Water source heat pumps can be used to provide heating in homes near to rivers, streams and lakes.

Biomass Boilers

Biomass boilers generate energy in a broadly similar way to traditional boilers. However, the key difference is that they use organic fuels which are renewable.

Such fuels can come either from plants or from domestic, industrial, agricultural or commercial waste. As such it is considered to be carbon-neutral process, as well as helping to solve issues of pollution and waste disposal.

Underfloor Heating

Underfloor heating is not a new concept. In the past electric heating elements were buried within floor screeds. These were heated over night using 'cheap rate' electricity. However, this method was expensive to run and uncontrollable and the building would over heat during the day but in the evening, when heat is generally required, no further heat was available.

Utilising modern multilayer pipes, control systems and high efficiency boilers, the underfloor heating systems of today are extremely comfortable and controllable. Radiators are no longer needed so giving more room space. The heat is more evenly distributed and dust is not circulated.

Underfloor Heating installation usually costs a similar amount to a radiator based system, requires only low temperature hot water and is ideal for use with modern condensing boilers. Running costs are low and there are other benefits:

  • Space & Economics - Every square metre of your home can be fully utilised
  • Hygiene - No dust and the underfloor heating will help to reduce house dust mites which is a benefit to asthma sufferers. Moisture content is too low, to support dust mites.
  • Aesthetics & Labour Saving - You can design your home to suit your needs rather than that of your heating engineer. Cleaning of the floors is easier and wet floors dry very quickly. Prevents discolouration of paintwork, peeling of paper etc.
  •  Silence & Comfort - Radiant heat will provide the highest comfort levels at an even temperature throughout. Compared to radiator systems, there is no noise.

POSTED BY: AT 01:52 pm   |  Permalink   |  E-mail this
Friday, 26 June 2009

We are all becoming increasingly aware of climate change and global warming and whether you just manage to recycle a few bottles each week, or have become a real ?eco-warrior' -  you would have had to be living on the moon for the last decade to escape the efforts of the government to reduce carbon emissions. Given that it is estimated that up to a quarter of all carbon emissions are as a direct result of us heating, lighting and living in our homes, there is a huge incentive for the Government in reaching is targets for reducing carbon emissions, to target the energy efficiency of the homes we live in.

One such initiative that came into force from 1st May 2008, was the Code For Sustainable Homes initiative. If you have bought or sold a property in the last 12 months or so, then you will have already felt the impact of this Code by the fact that the property you were buying or selling would have had to have an Energy Performance Certificate on it.

As far as new build homes are concerned, the Code for Sustainable Homes has an assessment method for rating and certifying the performance of new homes in terms of their ?environmental friendliness' with a view to encouraging ?continuous improvement in sustainable home building'.

 "The Code for Sustainable Homes provides a comprehensive measure of the sustainability of new homes, ensuring that sustainable homes deliver real improvements in key areas such as carbon dioxide emissions and water use. The Government's ambition for the Code is that it becomes the single national standard for the design and construction of sustainable homes, and that it drives improvements in home building practice."

Since its introduction just over a year ago, all new homes have to have a ?sustainability rating' indicating on a scale of 1-6 how eco-friendly they are (with 6 being the highest and representing a carbon neutral house).

At the same time as all this good stuff on sustainable development has come about, we have been in the midst of a credit crunch with lenders pulling in their horns left, right and centre and refusing mortgages to people and projects who would have previously represented a good risk. So, as anyone who has been refused credit or a mortgage in the past year will tell you, the attitude of banks to lending has become extremely cautious.

But put these 2 factors together - as did some forward thinking developers that I met in Lincolnshire recently - and you could have a formula for being granted credit AND doing the right thing for the environment.

Our contributors planned to convert an old community centre into private residential dwellings, but they were initially declined a mortgage because the bank was unwilling to back a project to develop flats given the uncertain economic situation and property market. However, when the proposals were shown to be the development of a number of eco-friendly starter homes - the bank jumped at the chance to lend and were right behind them. It seems that the fact that the properties were to be built to a Sustainability Rating of 3 -4 clinched the deal.

The Code Rating System

The Code for Sustainable Homes covers nine categories of sustainable design including:

? Energy and CO2 Emissions - With the aim to limit emissions of carbon dioxide (CO2) to the atmosphere arising from the operation of a dwelling and its services.

? Water - With the aim to reduce the consumption of potable water in the home from all sources, including borehole well water, through the use of water efficient fittings, appliances and water recycling systems.

? Materials - With the aim to encourage the use of materials with lower environmental impacts over their lifecycle.

? Surface Water Run-off - With the aim to design housing developments which avoid, reduce and delay the discharge of rainfall to public sewers and watercourses. This will protect watercourses and reduce the risk of localised flooding, pollution and other environmental damage.

? Waste - With the aim to recognise and reward the provision of adequate internal and external storage space for non-recyclable waste and recyclable household waste.

? Pollution - With the aim to reduce global warming from blowing agent emissions that arise from the manufacture, installation, use and disposal of foamed thermal and acoustic insulating materials.

? Heath and Wellbeing - With the aim to improve the quality of life in homes through good day lighting and to reduce the need for energy to light the home.

? Management - With the aim to encourage and reward provision of guidance enabling occupants to understand and operate their home efficiently and make the best use of local facilities.

? Ecology - With the aim to encourage development on land that already has a limited value to wildlife, and discourage the development of ecologically valuable sites.

Minimum Standards

There are some minimum standards which all new build homes must reach and these are set out in the Code for Sustainable Homes Technical Guide. To download the latest version updated May 2009 please click here:

http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/code_for_sustainable_homes_techguide.pdf

Each of the nine categories listed above includes a number of environmental issues. Each issue is a source of impact on the environment which can be assessed against a performance target and awarded one or more credits. Performance targets are more demanding than the minimum standard needed to satisfy Building Regulations or other legislation. They represent good or best practice, are technically feasible, and can be delivered by the building industry.

Some of the issues have mandatory minimum performance standards because they are so important. For these there is a single mandatory requirement which must be met, irrespective of what Code level rating is sought and the property must meet these requirements even if Level 1 (the lowest) rating is being granted. 

So what does a Sustainability Rating of 3 - 4 actually mean?

Since our contributors where aiming for a minimum of Code Level 3, this would mean:

The home will have to be 25% more energy efficient than one built to the 2006 Building Regulations standards. This could be achieved by:

? Improving the thermal efficiency of the walls, windows, and roof as far as is practically possible (by using more insulation or better glass for example);

? Reducing air permeability to the minimum consistent with health requirements (a certain amount of air ventilation is needed in a home for health reasons);

? Installing a high efficiency condensing boiler;

? Carefully designing the fabric of the home to reduce thermal bridging (thermal bridging allows heat to easily escape between the inner walls and the outer walls of a home);

? Possibly using district heating systems or low and zero carbon technologies such as solar thermal panels or biomass boilers to help heat the hot water.

The home will have to be designed to use no more than about 105 litres of water per person per day. This could be achieved by fitting a number of items such as:

? 6/4 Dual Flush WC;

? Flow Reducing/Aerating taps throughout;

? 6-9 litres per minute shower (note that an average electric shower is about 6/7 litres per minute);

? a smaller, shaped bath - still long enough to lie down in, but less water required to fill it to a level consistent with personal comfort;

? 18ltr maximum volume dishwasher;

? 60ltr maximum volume washing machine.

Other minimum requirements are required for:

? Surface water management - this may mean the provision of soakaways and areas of porous paving;

? Materials - this means a minimum number of materials meeting at least a ?D' grade in the Building Research Establishment's Green Guide (the scale goes from A+ to E);

? Waste management - this means having a site waste management plan in place during the home's construction, and adequate space for waste storage during its use.

To get to Level 3 the builder/developer must do other things to obtain the other points such as:

? Providing drying space (so that tumble dryers need not be used);

? Providing more energy efficient lighting (both internally and externally);

? Providing cycle storage;

? Providing a room that can be easily set up as a home office;

? Reducing the amount of water than runs off the site into the storm drains;

? Using much more environmentally friendly materials;

? Providing recycling capacity either inside or outside the home;

? Enhancing the security of the home;

? Enhancing the sound insulation used in the home.

The Future of New Homes

By 2016, all new build homes will have to have a sustainability rating of 6.

To see what would have to be done to achieve a Code Level 6 (the highest score, click here)

Clearly, the costs of meeting these requirements for a rating of 3 - 4 is greater than a bog standard construction, but the additional investment is likely to pay off - and our Lincoln developers were already assured that the finished product would be in strong demand. So, given that housebuilders and developers (both large and small) are currently having to offer large discounts or other ?sweeteners' to purchasers just to get housing inventory sold, this eco-friendly home strategy could be a shrewd move. Certainly, the fact that the bank were so keen to become involved once they understood the nature of the properties being developed is a sure sign of the possible success of this venture.

Please Note: The Code does not apply in Scotland. From 1 May 2008 a minimum of Code level 3 is required for all new housing promoted or supported by the Welsh Assembly Government or Assembly Government Sponsored Bodies. From 2nd June 2008 Code Level 3 is required for all new self-contained social housing in Northern Ireland.

POSTED BY: AT 09:00 am   |  Permalink   |  0 Comments  |  E-mail this
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